24th October 1985 : marooned by documentation

Published on 24 October 2025 at 12:26

 

Buzzed by mozzies all night; constant drone around my face and woke with bites all over my hands. Will string up my mozzie net if we're still in Ceuta tonight. 

 

Everyone over Ceuta already. Nothing to inspire diary writing or a letter home. Had first few lines sorted when we were turned away from the Morrocco border but when I came to write it, it was laboured. The noises, the toilets (although hot water now), everything about this place is annoying us. One visit to town was enough and there's nowhere else to go. And no money anyway. Then Kelvin and Nikki returned from the ferry terminal with the news that our permit still hasn't come through so we've got at least one more day here.

 

Some people went for a walk; others played Scrabble; Bob painted a gold Africa on the truck so we can chart our journey - when it finally gets going! But the day dragged. We're trying to be optimistic that we'll get through tomorrow, but Kelvin isn't hopeful. Morocco so close but so bureaucratically far. It’s like dangling a carrot in front of a donkey!

 

We’re surrounded by dogs here. They're In the campground too: a Doberman, a large indeterminate beast and a black female Great Dane. As if everything is marooned in the mist, from our hilltop perch we could just see two ships moored and motionless all day.

 

Just before lunch it started raining, giving all our washing a second rinse and forcing everyone onto the truck. But the sun shone brightly all afternoon. 

 

So, who is marooned here with me?

 

*    Kelvin (our English driver) is friendly and inspires confidence. 

*    Nikki, Kelvin's Canadian partner, is bubbly and can talk to anyone, even if they aren’t her type. Love chatting with her.

*    Vicki (a doctor and the only other Australian on board) is friendly and easy to confide in. She's a prankster too, and willing to get as much as she gives. But she's also a bit of a cynic and obsessed with consequences of actions.

*    Geoff is a funny British postman with a great line for every situation. Easily reduces the group to hysterics. Seems relaxed and confident in himself. 

*    Jim is a Candian, very bright and mixes in well.

*    Ann, another Brit, is a bit older than the rest of us and lacks self-confidence. Conservative but tries not to show it. Chats amiably with all.

*    Ben, our English co-driver, is a lovely lad, lots of fun and has found a fellow prankster in Vicki. Happy to help everyone in the group. Works hard but loves to play. 

*    Julie is a Candian toothpaste ad, with the broadest smile, a raucous laugh, and is very rarely serious. Friendly with everyone.

*    Bill, Julie's husband, is fairly quiet and seems more conservative than the rest of us. Great mates with Bob.

*    Bob is a lovely romantic Canadian with a girlfriend back home he adores. I envy him the love and passion he feels for Karen and hope to experience that one day.

*    Adri is a very sweet, quiet, competent woman from Holland. 

*    Per, one of our trio of Swedes, is very quiet but with a wide smile. Seems to have a good sense of humour and mixes more than his fellow Swedes, Hakan and Hans. 

*    Hans, a reserved but smiling Swede.

*    Hawken, is the Swedish adonis of the three, with beautiful blonde hair. 

*    Ton, is a very intelligent multi-linguist Dutchman with something to say on every subject.

*    Myrta, is a bubbly Swiss cooking maestro very much in love with her huge partner Markus. Fascinating to talk with and fun loving.

*    Markus is a tall deep-voiced Swiss giant. Rough when he wants to be, very funny and friendly.

*    Linda is a conservative American who worries about any anti-American chat.

*    Gary is Linda's businessman husband, seems quite straight-laced. 

 

And yet, despite all the people with me, I'm feeling lonely, made worse by lack of activity and interest around me. 

 

Delicious cheese and veggie dinner over noodles with garlic bread and slices of melon. Everyone stayed up very late around the fire talking in small groups. Jim, Vicki and I discussed London theatre and ballet - lovely to find other balletomanes and talk about something other than travel.

 

Put up mozzie net in the truck for a bite-free sleep.

 

 

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