Let me introduce myself so you're not embarking on this nostalgic journey with a total stranger.

 

I'm Melanie Ball, a university science degree drop-out, widely published travel writer (an accidental career borne of my African journey), author of three bushwalking guidebooks (Top Walks in Victoria, Top Walks in Tasmania & Top Walks in Australia), and hat decorator under the name Appliquez Moi. (That's me with the sun-bleached hair and west African fabric sarong. I don't know the baby chimp's name because we weren't formally introduced.)

From infancy my parents read to me and my sisters — C.S. Lewis’s Narnia series on long drives to Queensland for summer holidays, Paddington Bear in bed with Mum on Sunday mornings— and encouraged us to read to escape, to learn, to laugh. No book was off limits and all three of us are life-long voracious readers.

 

Two very different books profoundly influenced the teenaged me: Wilbur Smith’s When The Lion Feeds, the first of his multiple adventure novels set (mostly) in colonial southern Africa, and Jane Goodall’s In The Shadow of Man, detailing her ground-breaking study of wild chimpanzees in Tanzania. (Jane Goodall's recent death, in her sleep, aged 91, while on a talking tour, made me sad but also made me re-examine, remember and celebrate the extraordinary life and works of the woman who David Attenborough called "the conscience of conservation".) Together and separately, those two books ignited in me a romantic fascination for Africa and determination to go there, a dream that I finally realised at the age of 26, when I joined an Exodus Expeditions London to Johannesburg overland adventure. I had reached London by overlanding with Exodus from Kathmandu to London (11 weeks of ups - close encounters with rhinoceroses in Nepal, sunrise on the Taj Mahal, the wonders of Istanbul - and lows - five weeks of Delhi Belly that, surprisingly but thankfully, left me with an iron gut), and explored Egypt for several weeks, but my 17 months away from home were predominantly about finally experiencing the extraordinary continent that is Africa.

 

When my passport (containing multiple visas) was stolen from my daypack on the London Tube the day before the tour departed, my dream was all but dashed. But the passport was newly issued in London and, faced with my near-hysterics, the efficient and compassionate Australian Embassy staff issued me a new passport in one hour!

 

And so, the adventure of my life began.

 

P.S. I have edited excerpts for poor grammar and to protect the innocent and the guilty.

P.P.S. Most photos in this blog are scans of prints - and I didn't take many before reaching Morocco.

 

 

 

29th December 1985 : Friendly Detour

Drove south and east on the great red road, slightly less potholed than yesterday, to Sikasso where we got a stamp to drive further south to the Cote D’Ivoire border. The policeman was unexpectedly very helpful with our forms and didn’t ask for photos or money! While we waited, a small but vocal crowd of young men and women converged on the police station and then passed us, chanting good-humouredly “Moussa!” We assumed he was their leader and the chanting in support of the war effort. 

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28th December 1985 : The Best Market Yet

Into Bamako to check out with immigration but all borders closed. So off to the French Embassy where we were given the go-ahead for Cote d’Ivoire visas and in just two hours. Having discussed getting them on the spot and where we’d be for New Year’s Eve and when we'd reach Ouagadougou, actually getting them was a surprise and relief. But, still and again, it’s one thing at a time on this trip when nothing seems to turn out as expected.

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24th December 1985 : Closed!

Arrived at the Burkina Faso border very early, only to receive an unwelcome Christmas present. All borders are closed and we can only go through the border town of Koro with special permission from the Mopti gendarmerie. So, we turned around and retraced our bone shuddering journey along the dusty road - my head far away in The Mists of Avalon - and along the Mopti Causeway for the fifth time!

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23rd December 1985 : Beautiful Baobabs

Into Mopti, where finally financial. But learned in the bank that Mali and Burkina Faso ( meaning "Land of Incorruptible People", and called Upper Volta until 1984) are at war and I'm thinking the worst.

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22nd December 1985 : Masks and Mossies

Sat in the crows' nest with Vicki, Jim and Bob as we drove gravel roads. Turned off onto another unsealed "recognisable track" along the swamp which quickly deteriorated to a raised, fraying barely recognisable track through tiny Dogon villages with their distinct pointed mosques. Continued on a single lane between huge trees bearing seed pods, long yellow beans or red berries.

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21st December 1985 : Bitumen and Bargaining

We made a U-turn back onto asphalt and drove fast to the metropolis of Mopti and back into tourism hustle. Nikki and I had to fight off salesmen in the bargain souvenir market, with articles and hands thrust at us from every angle. Our parked truck was the focus for roving salesmen and we soon had six woven hats on board, and men rushing off for more because we were buying. Pineapples were everywhere around us and I can't wait until I have enough money to buy some - Saturday is not a good day to seek funds. 

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19th December 1985 : Village Life

Continued round the butte looking for Dogon villages. Spotted two clusters of stone-walled buildings high up on the hill wall and saw some movement through binoculars so we set off on foot. 

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18th December 1985 : Port Life

Bob and Mel’s gourmet banana and date porridge, conceived in the dark of the Mali night and delivered to the hungry hordes in the early morning, went down a treat, with two serves each, fuel for 2.5 hours at the river ferry port watching early morning life: a kaleidoscope of peoples, animals and colours.

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