Sat in the crows' nest with Vicki, Jim and Bob as we drove gravel roads. Turned off onto another unsealed "recognisable track" along the swamp which quickly deteriorated to a raised, fraying barely recognisable track through tiny Dogon villages with their distinct pointed mosques. Continued on a single lane between huge trees bearing seed pods, long yellow beans or red berries.
Wonderful variety of birdlife along the swamp edges with hawks, herons, grey pigeons, lime green parakeets. A bird that looked like a kingfish from afar but had a shorter beak and longer tail posed for us. Then we saw a flash of scarlet as a flock of arrow like birds passed. The crows' nest gave us a fabulous view of the wildlife and the scenes either side of the narrow road - and of the numerous obstacles ahead.
Finally arrived at the Niger River, where 17 of us boarded a baroque to cross, even though it was only a metre deep so we could have walked. After fierce bargaining over the price, horse and cart rides took us on the long, boring trip into the town of Djenne.
Djenne is a quiet mud walled town centred on a huge mud mosque with pointed walls and towers and projecting wooden beams. The small produce market had little to offer so we followed a local guide through narrow streets to the batik, jewellery area, and then to Dogon masks shops, sometimes just rooms in houses. A door off one family's courtyard opened onto a room piled floor-to-ceiling with dusty masks, bracelets, bits of pottery and bronze statues. The very pregnant woman who opened up for us was a fierce salesperson. insisting her items were antiques and who were we to say otherwise. They probably were old - the dust, at least, was antique. My budget doesn’t cover antiques real or made but Bob bargained for an hour before trading US dollars and a pair of jeans for a rather grotesque mask with tall headpiece. We enjoyed a great view of the town from her upstairs terrace.
Out to meet our horses and carts - and learn that SMERT had got us again, this time charging us a town tax - though WTF we got for that is anyone's guess. They certainly know how to make a quid, although at least this bloke could show us a table of charges and made out a receipt without adding bribe money.
Backtracked to truck and we moved on to make camp beside the river. Vicki and I wrote some more versus of the song we are performing at our Christmas show in two day's time.
Had a great strip off and wash on the river rocks reminiscent of tiled bathroom floors. Luxury!
Savaged by mossies! Where's the Aeroguard?
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