5th February 1986 : Unauthorised Alterations

Published on 5 February 2026 at 23:04

Headed to the British Embassy for help with my dwindling passport pages and was told to come back at 12.45. Nearby met the Canadians from the EO truck heading to the American Embassy so I tagged along. The friendly and helpful U.S. Vice Consul explained that official extra U.S. passport pages can only be inserted in U.S. passports, but he wrote a letter in French and stapled it and a second, blank U.S. embassy letterhead in my passport. Who cares about the small-print warning that unauthorised alterations will render the passport invalid and subject to cancellation?!

 

A huge butterfly wing portrait of Ronnie Reagan hung on the wall of the Vice Consul's air-conditioned office. There was also an iced-water dispenser with waxed paper cups - luxury!

 

Did an hour's guard duty on the truck then hightailed it down to the river. First view of Zaire (across the water) and the Sofitel Hotel. A group of young girls followed me back to the truck, stirring me in French and English in loud laughing voices.

 

Still no trip funds for Kel so he has to return at five. Back in camp the afternoon flew by, chatting, eating chocolate cake and cutting out the pieces for my orchid-print trousers. I get filthy dirty quickly in this incredible humid heat, my skin becoming black and streaky as if with bath rings. Needed a loofa scrub but made do with a great shower. 

 

Kel headed back into Bangui for 5 o’clock but still no telex about funds so another lonely Wednesday night in Bangui!

 

Skipped dinner and took it easy in the bar with EO crew before crashing out to get a few hours of sleep before a horrendous double guard shift of 11.30pm and 5.30am. Who writes these rosters? Oh, yeah... I do..

 

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