Another cold driving day, broken up by a stop in Zinder, the third largest city in Niger, where Bob and I made an extended two-day food shop, traipsing from one end of the market to the other after elusive eggs. I'm loving bargaining over piles of fruit and veggies and sometimes buying out a whole stall of one particular item: buying tomatoes by piles of five, peanut butter by the spoonful, lettuces by the bunch. Bob and I bought 20 plantains so we can try something a bit different, and French loaves still warm, a welcome change from sweet bread with spongy crusts. Having finally found eggs, I was surprised and delighted when I realized I was counting them in my head in French! (My reluctant four years of French at high school had some benefit.)
Early in our shop, a beggar woman stood behind us with her young female guide and chanted and wailed a haunting but still rather beautiful song. Despite not knowing the words I was touched by the beauty of the sound – but not enough to give her money. My slightly aggressive “No!” seemed to surprise them.
Surprise sand matting practice just before lunch too. Then a donkey train loaded with pottery jars passing our lunch spot created a photographic frenzy.
Long, fast drive in the afternoon on good roads; read Livingston.
Driving through a smallish town near camp time we met a Bedford truck load of six POMS (the Douglases): grandparents, parents and two girls, all from Devon, on a grand Europe and Africa Overland of a year’s duration, and we decided to camp with them. They provided two bits of news of great interest: they are carrying a spare gear box and they met the last surviving Animals [a group of mostly male travellers with their driver Annie that I met on my Asian Overland last year], so we have missed them. When last seen, Annie was dismantling the truck engine at a border where one of the guards was demanding that the female passengers sleep with him or he wouldn't let them cross. Disappointed not to catch up with this ragged crew. Will see if the Douglas girls recognise who was left from my photo.
Bob and I produced yet another gourmet feast: vegetable and pineapple kebabs with peanut sauce and Mum’s candied bananas – minus butter - with custard made by a flustered but capable Kelvin. Everyone loved our dinner and thought dessert great - thanks Mum! Bob and I always work our butts off but we love making something a bit different and unexpected and the praise is always welcome.
Sat around with our visitors joking about us raiding their truck in the middle of the night for spares and even digging tunnels. And just chatting about our travels so far. The night ended with a chorus rendition of That Ol' 4-Wheeler around the coals.
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