28th November 1985 : Camel Capers

Published on 28 November 2025 at 09:07

We drove to La Source early for water but got only three jerry cans into the truck before they turned off the taps. So we returned to the egg army base to fill up.

 

We then headed back into town and parked beside the post office. Kelvin and French-speaking Myrta - the Algerians seemed to preferr talking to a white woman than a man - to face the music with the gendarmes.

 

I re-checked post restante but no more mail. Then accompanied Jim to spend his last Algerian money. We saw some beautiful Agadez jewellery, simple silver ethnic crosses. Jim also bought a tooled leather Tuareg belt.

 

Back at the truck Nicki told us that the police were checking with the tourist office about the rate for camel rides and that all should be sorted in another hour. She also asked us to donate our Michelin 153 map to the gendarme who kept asking about it. Nikki, Markus and I then headed off again, this time to a restaurant where we re-fuelled on hot fresh bread and Fanta lemon sodas.

 

Back at the truck again we learned that Kelvin had settled with the police for 258 dinar, which prompted whoops of triumph and delight. But, although the police had authorised us to pay only 258 dinar, the money had to go personally to the chief back at La source, and Ben was chosen to do the dastardly dash. He dropped Bill, Julie, Nikki and I off at the market to shop, Jim having disappeared.

 

Nikki and I bought so much food we couldn’t carry the bag around, so I guarded our provisions while Nikki continued shopping. Ended up staggering to the shade and into a restaurant, where we ate hot, fresh bread stick. Kelvin found us there and stayed until Ben arrived back in the truck.

 

All seemed to be well, despite Ben having had to put everything in an envelope, including the authority to pay, which the police had wanted back, and had to sign and seal the Abdullah-addressed envelope in front of a Swiss witness. So we headed out of town for lunch, only to be pulled up by a police van with Abdullah inside, whereupon all our hassles started over. So we turned around and went back into town to argue it all through, again. The rest of us had to fill in time while the negotiations went on, a few of us chatting with another Exodus mob holding up the bar. Adri and I also went to the patisserie to spend the last communal dinar on some cakes and dates.

 

Back at the truck, everything sorted - for 720 dinar, the original agreed sum which Kel would have paid in the first place if Abdullah hadn’t started to demand 1400, prompting this time-wasting farce.

 

So, finally, we left Tamanrasset, the money exchange checkout at the a breeze, no query of dodgy letter. Through in record time and down the road to camp.

 

Sat around the fire until talking to Geoff and Vicki about everything from mental hospitals to falling in love, which Vicki doesn’t believe in. All a bit sad for her I think. Geoff commented on my not thinking I’d have children that when I meet the right man I’ll probably change my mind.

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