Woke at 5.15am to Vicki banging fry pan with spoon while still in bed. No sudden burst of activity, bodies emerging slowly from tents. Finally, everyone was aboard the truck and we started rumbling up the hill in the dark. We piled out of the back into a freezing wind and continued briskly on foot up the hill trying to get warm.
Up top, we joined other rugged up travellers hunkered out of the wind behind a single-story stone hut to watch fantastic colours splash the sky as the sun peeked above silhouetted Hoggar Mountains ridgelines in almost misty hues. What a start to the day! The colours faded as the sun rose clear of the hills, the pink hue quickly lost, but the views all around us as we walked back down to the truck were still spectacular. A short drive had us back in camp for a delicious breakfast of corned beef and smash with tomato sauce.
Buried myself in my book for the morning's drive, so missed most of the scenery, except when we found ourselves at a dead-end overlooking a sweeping valley panorama of hazy shades and mountain ranges - a spectacular loo stop.
Finally reached the metropolis of Tamanrasset, only to find the city shut for a public holiday celebrating Mohammed’s birthday, and post restaurant closed, so no mail. No water at the campsite either so we drove 20km out of town and camped beside a waterhole, in country that was like my imaginings of east African game parks: few hills and lots of thorn scrub.
Walked away from the group and sat for ages reading Wild Justice; even though I knew the end of this Wilbur Smith novel, my heart thumped with excitement. Finished in dimming light, exhilarated.
Stepped out of the truck later on into mild, still air humming with cicadas. Everything about this place says Africa: Fabulous!
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