6th November 1985 : Moroccan Markets & Mountains

Published on 7 November 2025 at 06:36

A red-streaked dawn heralded a gorgeous day of photo opportunities.

 

Stopped early to shop in a bustling Berber market (Baimalne de Dades) crowded with bespangled Berber women wrapped in black and colours. Turbaned men robed in pale hues bargained for foods and goods. Colour everywhere, noise, and heated discussions over fruits and grains. Most people either ignored us or didn’t see us despite our collection of cameras of every size. Some women covered their faces but if we waited they eventually looked up to see if we’d gone.

 

Our onward journey took us through the spectacular Dades Gorge, through which runs a beautiful river. The road snakes between opposing rock faces, one faulted vertically, the opposite one horizontally.

 

Lunched beside the river and most of us stripped off for a delicious but icy wash. A local came down and told us off for soaping their water - didn't consider that back then.

 

Drove on through a narrow pass between opposing walls of rock with incredible views of truck, rocks and river at both ends. Later we climbed over a pass where the rock faces were massive slabs of paper-thin layers, the faces were cracked and looked like the slightest jolt would send the wall crumbling down on us. Every bend in the road produced a better view.

 

Stopped for the night in a small valley between two sloping faulted mountain ranges. I used my increasing weight as a stabiliser while the men sawed up a huge tree we’d picked up earlier for a fire.

 

Delicious stuffed capsicums for dinner, after sat around the fire until the freezing wind drove me onto the truck. Fell asleep to the Exodus black and white minstrels’ rendition of Old Man River - it would become our theme song - and raucous accompanying laughter.

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